Ndemanga Yaitali pa Handloom ndi Indian Legacy mu Chingerezi
Kuyamba:
Zaka zoposa 5,000 zadutsa kuchokera pamene zida zolumira ku India zinayamba kugwira ntchito. Vedas ndi folk ballads ndizodzaza ndi zithunzi za loom. Mawilo ozungulira ndi amphamvu kwambiri kotero kuti adakhala chizindikiro cha kumenyera ufulu kwa India. Chikhalidwe chosagwirika cha ku India ndi nsalu yolukidwa, yomwe inali ndipo ikadali gawo lofunika kwambiri la warp ndi weft.
Mawu Ochepa pa Mbiri Yakale ya Indian Handloom:
Anthu a ku Indus Valley Civilization ankagwiritsa ntchito nsalu za thonje, ubweya, ndi silika. Wolemba ndi Jonathan Mark Kenoyer. Sizolakwika kunena kuti India wakhala akutsogola opanga nsalu m'mbiri yakale yolembedwa, ngakhale akatswiri ofukula zinthu zakale ndi akatswiri a mbiri yakale akuwulula zinsinsi za beseni la Indo-Saraswati.
Buku la Museum of Modern Art lili ndi ndemanga ya John Irwin pa miyambo yamanja kuyambira m'ma 1950. “Aroma ankagwiritsa ntchito liwu la Sanskrit lakuti carbasina (lochokera ku Sanskrit karpasa) kutengera thonje kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m’ma 200 BC Muulamuliro wa Nero munali muulamuliro wa Nero pamene muslin wonyezimira bwino kwambiri wa ku India unakhala wafashoni, pansi pa mayina monga nebula ndi vend textile (mphepo zolukidwa), mawu omalizirawo anamasulira. ndendende ku mtundu wapadera wa muslin wolukidwa ku Bengal.
Chikalata chamalonda cha ku Indo-European chomwe chimatchedwa Periplus Maris Erythraei chimalongosola madera akuluakulu opanga nsalu ku India mofanana ndi momwe wolemba nyuzipepala ya zaka za m'ma XNUMX amawafotokozera ndikuwonetsa zolemba zomwezo zapadera kwa aliyense.
Tikudziwa kuchokera mu Baibulo lachilatini la St Jerome la m'zaka za zana la 4 kuti mtundu wa utoto wa ku India unalinso wodziwika bwino ku Roma. Ntchitoyi inanenedwa kuti nzeru inali yolimba kuposa utoto wa ku India. Mayina monga sash, shawl, pajama, gingham, dimity, dungaree, bandanna, chintz, ndi khaki amapereka chitsanzo cha mmene nsalu za ku India zimasonkhezera anthu olankhula Chingelezi.”
Miyambo Yaikulu ya Indian Handloom:
Pali miyambo yambiri ya handloom ku India, kuchokera ku Kashmir kupita ku Kanyakumari, kuchokera kugombe lakumadzulo kupita kugombe lakummawa. Pamapu awa, gulu la Cultural Samvaad limatchula miyambo yabwino kwambiri ya ku India yoluka pamanja. Sitikunena kuti tinatha kuchita chilungamo kwa ochepa chabe a iwo.
Pashmina from Leh, Ladakh, and Kashmir Valley, the Kullu and Kinnauri weaves of Himachal Pradesh, Phulkari from Punjab, Haryana, and Delhi, Panchachuli weaves of Uttarakhand, Kota Doria from Rajasthan, Benarasi Silk of Uttar Pradesh, Bhagalpuri Silk from Bihar, Patan Patola of Gujarat, Chanderi of Madhya Pradesh, Paithani of Maharashtra.
Champa Silk from Chattisgarh, Sambalpuri Ikat from Odisha, Tussar Silk from Jharkhand, Jamdani and Tangail of West Bengal, Mangalgiri and Venkatgiri from Andhra Pradesh, Pochampally Ikat from Telangana, Udupi Cotton and Mysore Silk of Karnataka, Kunvi weaves from Goa, Kera , Arani and Kanjeevaram Silk of Tamil Nadu.
Lepcha waku Sikkim, Sualkuchi waku Assam, Apatani waku Arunachal Pradesh, Naga weave waku Nagaland, Moirang Phee waku Manipur, Pachhra waku Tripura, Mizu Puan ku Mizoram ndi Eri silika waku Meghalaya ndi omwe tidakwanitsa kulowa nawo pamapu awa. Mtundu wathu wotsatira wayamba kale kugwira ntchito!
Njira Patsogolo pa Miyambo ya Indian Handloom:
Kuluka ndi ntchito zina zogwirira ntchito limodzi zimapereka ntchito ndi chitukuko kwa mabanja 31 lakh+ m'litali ndi m'lifupi la India. Oposa 35 lakh oluka ndi ogwira nawo ntchito ogwirizana amalembedwa ntchito m'mafakitale osalongosoka, 72% mwa omwe ndi azimayi. Malinga ndi Census of India's Fourth Handloom Census
Zogulitsa pamanja ndi zambiri kuposa kungosunga ndi kutsitsimutsa miyambo. Imakhalanso njira yokhala ndi chinthu chopangidwa ndi manja. Kuchulukirachulukira, zinthu zamtengo wapatali ndi zopangidwa ndi manja komanso zopangidwa ndi organic m'malo mwa zomwe zimapangidwa m'mafakitale. Mwanaalirenji angatanthauzidwenso kuti ndi handloom. Chifukwa cha zoyesayesa za mabungwe omwe siaboma, mabungwe aboma, ndi opanga ma couture, zida zamanja zaku India zikusinthidwa kukhala zaka za m'ma 21.
Kutsiliza:
Ngakhale kuti zoyesayesa zazikulu zachitidwa, tili otsimikiza ndi mtima wonse kuti kudzakhala kotheka kuthetsa kutsika kwa zida zamanja za ku India ngati amwenye achichepere adzitengera. Sicholinga chathu kunena kuti amavala zovala zamanja zokha. Nsalu za m’manja zitha kugwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga zovala ndi ziwiya zapakhomo popeza tikuyembekeza kuzibwezeretsanso m’miyoyo yawo.
Ndime pa Handloom ndi Indian Legacy mu Chingerezi
Nsalu za m’manja zimakongoletsedwa ndi zokongoletsera ku India monga mwamwambo wazaka mazana ambiri. Ngakhale kuli mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zovala za akazi ku India, ma saris, ndi bulawuzi atenga kufunikira kwake komanso kufunika kwake. Mayi yemwe wavala sari amadziwika bwino kuti ndi Mmwenye.
Pakati pa akazi a ku India, ma sari ndi mabulawuzi amakhala ndi malo apadera m'mitima yawo. Pali zobvala zochepa zomwe zingafanane ndi kukongola kwa sari kapena bulauzi yachikhalidwe yaku India. Palibe cholembedwa cha mbiri yake. Pali mitundu yambiri ya zovala ndi masitayelo oluka omwe amapezeka m'makachisi akale komanso otchuka aku India.
Madera onse aku India amapanga saris wamanja. Pakupanga zovala zamanja, pali kusokonekera kwakukulu ndi kubalalitsidwa komwe kumayenderana ndi anthu ogwira ntchito molimbika, okhazikika, njira zachikhalidwe. Onse okhala kumidzi ndi okonda zaluso amathandizira izi, limodzi ndi luso lobadwa nalo.
Bizinesi ya handloom ndi gawo lofunikira kwambiri m'mafakitale aku India. Handloom ndiye ntchito yayikulu kwambiri yosalongosoka ku India. Madera akumidzi, ocheperako m'matauni, ndi ma Metropolitan onse ali ndi iyo, komanso utali ndi m'lifupi mwa dzikoli.
Ndemanga Yachidule pa Handloom ndi Indian Legacy mu Chingerezi
M'gululi, makampani opanga manja amathandizira kwambiri pakubweretsa chitukuko cha zachuma kwa osauka akumidzi. Pali anthu ambiri ogwira ntchito ku bungweli. Koma sizikuthandiza kwambiri pakupanga mwayi wa ntchito komanso kupereka moyo kwa anthu osauka akumidzi.
Oyang'anira amazindikira kufunikira kwa zida zamanja ndipo amachitapo kanthu kuti alimbikitse.
Choyamba, kumvetsetsa ndi kusanthula kukakamizidwa komwe kulipo pa moyo wa owomba nsalu m'gulu la Rajapura-Patalwasas. Monga gawo lachiwiri, kuwunika kofunikira kuyenera kuchitidwa pamipangidwe yamabungwe agawo la handloom. Izi ziyenera kutsatiridwa ndi kuwunika momwe kuphatikizika kwakhudzira chiwopsezo cha moyo ndi kachitidwe ka bizinesi ya handloom.
Chifukwa cha zinthu za Fabindia ndi Daram, ntchito zakumidzi zimatetezedwa ndikukhazikika ku India (Annapurna.M, 2006). Zotsatira zake, gawo ili liri ndi kuthekera kwakukulu. Madera akumidzi ku India amapereka ntchito zaluso, zomwe zimapatsa gawo lamanja mwayi wofananira. Chinthu chokha chomwe chimafunikira ndi chitukuko choyenera.
Kusiyana pakati pa kupanga ndi kukhazikitsa ndondomeko.
Pamene mikhalidwe yazachuma ikusintha, mfundo za boma zikuipiraipira, ndipo kudalirana kwa mayiko kukukulirakulira, oluka nsalu zamanja akukumana ndi mavuto a moyo. Nthawi zonse pamene zilengezo za boma za umoyo wa owomba nsalu ndi chitukuko cha makampani opanga nsalu zoluka ndi manja ziperekedwa, nthawi zonse pamakhala kusiyana pakati pa chiphunzitso ndi machitidwe.
Machitidwe angapo aboma alengezedwa kwa owomba nsalu. Boma likukumana ndi mafunso ofunikira pankhani yokhazikitsa. Pofuna kuonetsetsa tsogolo la mafakitale a handloom, ndondomeko za ndondomeko ndi kudzipereka pakukhazikitsa zidzafunika.
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500 Mawu Essay pa Handloom ndi Indian Legacy mu Chingerezi
Kuyamba:
Ndi bizinesi yapanyumba komwe banja lonse limagwira ntchito yopanga nsalu zopangidwa kuchokera ku ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje, silika, ubweya, ndi jute. Ngati adzipota, kudzida, ndi kudziluka okha. Chowomba ndi nsalu yopangira nsalu.
Mitengo ndi nsungwi ndizo zida zazikulu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga izi, ndipo sizifunikira magetsi kuti ziyende. M'mbuyomu, nsalu zonse zinkapangidwa pamanja. Mwanjira imeneyi, zovala zimapangidwa m’njira yosunga chilengedwe.
Chitukuko cha Indus Valley chimadziwika kuti ndi chopangidwa ndi handloom yaku Indiana. Nsalu zochokera ku India zinkatumizidwa ku Roma, Egypt, ndi China wakale.
Kale, pafupifupi mudzi uliwonse unali ndi owomba nsalu wake omwe ankapanga zovala zonse zofunika kwa anthu a m’mudzimo monga saree, dhoti, ndi zina zotero. M’madera ena kumene kumakhala kozizira m’nyengo yachisanu, munali malo enieni oluka ubweya. Koma zonse zinali Zowomba Pamanja ndi Zowomba Pamanja.
Mwachizoloŵezi, njira yonse yopangira nsalu inali yodzidalira. Oluka okha kapena ogwira ntchito zaulimi ankatsuka ndi kusintha thonje, silika, ndi ubweya wobwera ndi alimi, osamalira nkhalango, ndi abusa. Zida zing'onozing'ono zidagwiritsidwa ntchito pochita izi, kuphatikizapo gudumu lozungulira lodziwika bwino (lotchedwanso Charkha), makamaka ndi akazi. Pambuyo pake ulusi wopota pamanja umenewu anaupanga kukhala nsalu ya pamanja ndi owomba nsalu.
Thonje la ku India linagulitsidwa padziko lonse lapansi panthawi ya ulamuliro wa Britain, ndipo dzikolo linali litadzaza ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi makina ochokera kunja. Akuluakulu aku Britain adagwiritsa ntchito zachiwawa komanso kukakamiza kuti awonjezere kufunika kwa ulusiwu. Chifukwa cha zimenezi, opotawo anataya chuma chawo chonse, ndipo owomba nsalu za pamanja ankadalira ulusi wamakina kuti apeze zofunika pamoyo wawo.
Ogulitsa ulusi ndi andalama anafunikira pamene ulusiwo unagulidwa patali. Kuonjezera apo, chifukwa chakuti oluka nsalu ambiri alibe ngongole, amalonda anayamba kufala kwambiri, ndipo oluka anataya ufulu wawo, ndipo ankagwira ntchito kwa amalonda monga makontrakitala / ogwira ntchito za malipiro.
Chifukwa cha zinthu zimenezi, nsalu ya ku India inatha kupirira mpaka nkhondo yoyamba ya padziko lonse pamene makina anagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zovala ndi kusefukira m’misika ya ku India. M’zaka za m’ma 1920, zida zoulutsira magetsi zinayambitsidwa, ndipo mpherozo zinaphatikizidwa, zomwe zinayambitsa mpikisano wopanda chilungamo. Izi zidapangitsa kutsika kwa chiwongolero chamanja.
Swadeshi Movement idayambitsidwa ndi Mahatma Gandhi, yemwe adayambitsa kupota dzanja ngati Khadi, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti kuwomba pamanja ndi kuwomba pamanja. Mmwenye aliyense adalimbikitsidwa kugwiritsa ntchito ulusi wa Khadi ndi Charkha. Zotsatira zake, Manchester Mills idatsekedwa ndipo gulu lodziyimira pawokha la India linasinthidwa. Khadi ankavala m’malo mwa zovala zochokera kunja.
Kuyambira m'chaka cha 1985, makamaka pambuyo pa zaka za m'ma 90 kumasulidwa, gawo la handloom lakhala likukumana ndi mpikisano kuchokera kuzinthu zotsika mtengo, ndi kupanga zotsanzira kuchokera ku nsalu yamagetsi.
Kuonjezera apo, ndalama za boma ndi chitetezo cha ndondomeko zatsika kwambiri. Pakhalanso kukwera kwakukulu kwa mtengo wa ulusi wachilengedwe. Nsalu zachilengedwe ndizokwera mtengo kwambiri poyerekeza ndi ulusi wochita kupanga. Anthu sangakwanitse chifukwa cha izi. Kwa zaka khumi kapena ziŵiri zapitazi, malipiro a oluka nsalu za pamanja akhala akusowa.
Oluka nsalu ambiri akusiya kuluka chifukwa cha nsalu zotchipa zophatikizika ndi ma poly ndikuyamba kugwira ntchito yopanda luso. Umphawi wakhala wovuta kwambiri kwa ambiri.
Zopadera za nsalu za handloom zimawapangitsa kukhala apadera. Maluso a owomba nsalu amatsimikizira zotulukapo, ndithudi. Kuluka nsalu yofanana ndi oluka awiri okhala ndi luso lofanana sikudzakhala kofanana m’njira iliyonse. Mtima wa woluka umaonekera pansaluyo – akakwiya, nsaluyo imakhala yothina, pamene wakhumudwa, imamasuka. Chifukwa chake, chidutswa chilichonse chimakhala chapadera.
N’zotheka kupeza mitundu yosiyanasiyana yoluka 20-30 m’chigawo chimodzi cha India, malingana ndi dera la dzikolo. Nsalu zambiri zimaperekedwa, monga nsalu zosavuta, zojambula zamitundu, mapangidwe a geometric, ndi zojambulajambula za muslin. Zakhala zosangalatsa kugwira ntchito ndi akatswiri athu amisiri. Ndilo dziko lokhalo padziko lapansi lomwe lili ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zojambulajambula zamitundumitundu.
Sari iliyonse yolukidwa ndi yapadera ngati chojambula kapena chithunzi. Kufa kwa handloom ndikofanana ndi kunena kuti kujambula, kujambula, kufanizira dongo, ndi mapangidwe azithunzi zidzatha chifukwa cha osindikiza a 3D.
400 Mawu Essay pa Handloom ndi Indian Legacy mu Chingerezi
Kuyamba:
Ndi bizinesi yapanyumba komwe banja lonse limagwira ntchito yopanga nsalu zopangidwa kuchokera ku ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje, silika, ubweya, ndi jute. Malinga ndi luso lawo, amatha kupota, kukongoletsa utoto, ndi kuluka okha ulusi. Kuphatikiza pa ma handlooms, makinawa amagwiritsidwanso ntchito kupanga nsalu.
Mitengo, nthawi zina nsungwi, imagwiritsidwa ntchito pazida izi ndipo imayendetsedwa ndi magetsi. Njira zambiri zopangira nsalu zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pamanja m'masiku akale. Zovala zimatha kupangidwa motere popanda kuwononga chilengedwe.
Mbiri ya Handloom - Masiku Oyambirira:
Chitukuko cha Chigwa cha Indus chimadziwika kuti chinayambitsa makina a handloom aku India. Nsalu zochokera ku India zinkatumizidwa ku Roma, Egypt, ndi China wakale.
Anthu a m’mudziwu anali ndi awo oluka nsalu m’mbuyomo omwe ankapanga zovala zonse zomwe ankafuna monga ma saree, ma dhoti ndi zina zotero. M’madera ena muli malo oluka ubweya waubweya wozizira kwambiri. Nsalu zowomba pamanja ndi zowomba pamanja zonse zidagwiritsidwa ntchito.
Kupanga nsalu kunali njira yodzipezera yokha. Thonje, silika, ndi ubweya wotengedwa kuchokera kwa alimi, osamalira nkhalango, abusa, ndi osamalira nkhalango amatsukidwa ndi kusinthidwa ndi owomba nsalu kapena ndi anthu ogwira ntchito zaulimi. Azimayi ankagwiritsa ntchito zida zazing'ono, kuphatikizapo gudumu lozungulira lodziwika bwino (lotchedwanso Charkha). Kenako olukawo ankapanga nsalu pogwiritsa ntchito ulusi wopota pamanja umenewu pansalu ya pamanja.
Kuchuluka kwa tsitsi:
M'nthawi ya Britain, India adalandira ulusi wochuluka wochokera kunja ndi thonje lopangidwa ndi makina. Boma la Britain lidayesa kukakamiza anthu kuti adye ulusiwu kudzera mwachiwawa komanso mokakamiza. Mwachidule, ma spinner adataya chuma chawo ndipo owomba nsalu adayenera kudalira ulusi wamakina kuti apeze zofunika pamoyo wawo.
Wogulitsa ulusi ndi wandalama anafunikira pamene ulusi umayenera kugulidwa patali. Makampani opanga nsalu anayamba kudalira kwambiri anthu apakatikati pamene ngongole ya owomba nsalu inatsika. Motero, oluka nsalu ambiri anataya ufulu wawo wodzilamulira ndipo anakakamizika kugwira ntchito kwa amalonda pa mgwirizano/malipiro.
Msika waku India wopangira zida zopangira zida zachitsulo unakhalapobe mosasamala kanthu za zimenezi kufikira pamene Nkhondo Yadziko I inafika pamene msikawo unadzala ndi zovala zopangidwa ndi makina zochokera kunja. M’zaka za m’ma 1920, zida zoulutsira magetsi zinayamba kupangidwa, mphero zinaphatikizidwa, ndipo mtengo wa ulusi unakwera, zomwe zinachititsa kuchepa kwa zipangizo zamanja.
Kutsitsimuka kwa handloom:
Swadeshi Movement idayambitsidwa ndi Mahatma Gandhi, yemwe adayambitsa kupota dzanja ngati Khadi, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti kuwomba pamanja ndi kuwomba pamanja. Mmwenye aliyense adalimbikitsidwa kugwiritsa ntchito ulusi wa Khadi ndi Charkha. Zotsatira zake, Manchester Mills idatsekedwa ndipo gulu lodziyimira pawokha la India linasinthidwa. Khadi ankavala m’malo mwa zovala zochokera kunja.
Zovala zamanja sizitha nthawi:
Zopadera za nsalu za handloom zimawapangitsa kukhala apadera. Maluso a woluka amatsimikizira zotuluka, ndithudi. Sizingatheke kuti owomba nsalu awiri omwe ali ndi luso lofanana apange nsalu imodzi chifukwa amasiyana m’njira imodzi kapena zingapo. Nsalu iliyonse imasonyeza mmene woluka akumvera - akakwiya, nsaluyo imakhala yothina, pamene ali wachisoni, nsaluyo imakhala yotayirira. Choncho zidutswazo zimakhala zosiyana mwazokha.
N’zotheka kupeza mitundu yosiyanasiyana yoluka 20-30 m’chigawo chimodzi cha India, malingana ndi dera la dzikolo. Nsalu zambiri zilipo, monga nsalu zosavuta, zojambula zamitundu, mapangidwe a geometric, ndi zojambulajambula za muslin. Akatswiri amisiri ndi oluka athu. Zojambula zolemera za nsalu zaku China sizingafanane ndi dziko masiku ano.
Sari iliyonse yolukidwa ndi yapadera ngati chojambula kapena chithunzi. Kunena kuti handloom iyenera kuwonongeka chifukwa chotenga nthawi komanso kuvutikira poyerekeza ndi nsalu yamagetsi, zili ngati kunena kuti kujambula, kujambula, ndi kupanga dongo kudzakhala kwachikale chifukwa cha osindikiza a 3D ndi zojambula za 3D.
Thandizani Handloom kuti musunge mwambo wanthawi zonse uwu! Tikuyesera kuchita gawo lathu. Inunso mutha kutero - Gulani ma saree a handloom pa intaneti.