Isincoko esinde kwiHandloom kunye neLifa laseIndiya ngesiNgesi
Intshayelelo:
Ngaphezu kweminyaka engama-5,000 sele idlulile oko kwaqaliswa ukuluka izinto zokuluka eIndiya. IiVedas kunye neebhaladi zabantu zizele yimifanekiso ye-loom. Amavili e-spindle anamandla kangangokuba aba ziimpawu zomzabalazo wenkululeko waseIndiya. Ilifa lenkcubeko elingaphathekiyo laseIndiya lilaphu elilukiweyo, elalihlala liyinxalenye engundoqo ye-warp kunye ne-weft.
Amagama ambalwa kwiMbali yeLifa le-Indian Handloom:
Impucuko yase-Indus Valley yayisebenzisa umqhaphu, uboya kunye nelaphu lesilika. Umbhali nguJonathan Mark Kenoyer. Mhlawumbi ayilunganga ukutyhola ukuba i-Indiya ibe ngumvelisi ohamba phambili weempahla ezininzi zembali erekhodiweyo, nangona abembi bezinto zakudala kunye nababhali-mbali besatyhila iimfihlakalo ze-Indo-Saraswati basin.
IMyuziyam yekhathalogu yobuGcisa banamhlanje ibandakanya uluvo luka-John Irwin malunga nezithethe ze-handloom ukusuka kwi-1950s. “AmaRoma asebenzisa igama lesiSanskrit elithi carbasina (elisuka kwiSanskrit karpasa) kumqhaphu ukusukela ngowama-200 BC Yayiphantsi kolawulo lukaNero apho i-muslin yaseIndiya eguquguqukayo yatshintsha yatshintsha, phantsi kwamagama afana ne-nebula kunye ne-vend textile (imimoya elukiweyo), le yokugqibela iguqulela. ngokuchanekileyo kudidi olukhethekileyo lwe-muslin elukwe e-Bengal.
Uxwebhu lokurhweba lwase-Indo-European olwaziwa ngokuba yiPeriplus Maris Erythraei luchaza iindawo eziphambili zokwenziwa kwelaphu eIndiya ngendlela efanayo igazette yenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba enokuzichaza kwaye inike amanqaku afanayo okhethekileyo kwinto nganye.
Siyazi kwinguqulelo yeBhayibhile yesiLatini ye-St Jerome yenkulungwane yesi-4 ukuba umgangatho wokudaya waseIndiya wawuyintsomi kwilizwe laseRoma. Umsebenzi wawusithi ubulumko bomelele ngakumbi kunedayi zaseIndiya. Amagama anjengesash, shawl, pyjama, gingham, dimity, dungaree, bandanna, chintz, nekhaki angumzekelo wempembelelo yamalaphu amaIndiya kubantu abantetho isisiNgesi.”
Izithethe ezinkulu zaseIndiya zeHandloom:
Kukho isithethe esikhulu se-handloom eIndiya, ukusuka eKashmir ukuya eKanyakumari, ukusuka kunxweme olusentshona ukuya kunxweme olusempuma. Kule mephu, iqela leNkcubeko leSamvaad likhankanya ezona zithethe zezandla zaseIndiya ezizezona zintle. Ngaphandle kokutsho ukuba sikwazile ukwenza ubulungisa kwabambalwa kubo.
I-Pashmina evela eLeh, iLadakh, kunye ne-Kashmir Valley, i-Kullu kunye neKinnauri ye-Himachal Pradesh, i-Phulkari esuka ePunjab, eHaryana, naseDelhi, i-Panchachuli ye-Uttarakhand, i-Kota Doria esuka eRajasthan, i-Benarasi Silk yase-Uttar Pradesh, i-Bhagalpuri Silk yase-Bihar UPatola waseGujarat, uChanderi waseMadhya Pradesh, uPaithani waseMaharashtra.
I-Champa Silk esuka e-Chattisgarh, i-Sambalpuri Ikat esuka e-Odisha, i-Tussar Silk yaseJharkhand, i-Jamdani kunye ne-Tangail yase-West Bengal, i-Mangalgiri kunye ne-Venkatgiri esuka e-Andhra Pradesh, e-Pochampally Ikat esuka eTelangana, e-Udupi Cotton kunye ne-Mysore Silk yaseKarnataka, e-Kunvi eluka i-Goa, i-Kunvi , uArani kunye neKanjeevaram Silk yaseTamil Nadu.
I-Lepcha yaseSikkim, i-Sualkuchi yase-Assam, i-Apatani esuka e-Arunachal Pradesh, i-Naga weave yase-Nagaland, i-Moirang Phee yase-Manipur, i-Pachhra yase-Tripura, i-Mizu Puan e-Mizoram kunye ne-silk ka-Eri yaseMeghalaya zezo sikwazile ukungena kule nguqulelo yemephu. Inguqulelo yethu elandelayo sele ikwimisebenzi!
Indlela ePhambili kwizithethe zaseIndiya zeHandloom:
Ukwaluka kunye neminye imisebenzi enxulumeneyo ibonelela ngengqesho kunye nenkqubela phambili yezindlu ezingama-31 lakh + kubude nobubanzi beIndiya. Bangaphezu kwama-35 lakh abaluki kunye nabasebenzi abamanyene nabo baqeshwe kushishino lwezandla olungacwangciswanga, i-72% kubo ingabasetyhini. Ngokobalo lweSine lweHandloom lwaseIndiya
Iimveliso zeHandloom zingaphezulu nje kwendlela yokugcina nokuvuselela izithethe. Ikwayindlela yokuba nento eyenziwe ngesandla. Ngokunyukayo, ubunewunewu bumalunga neemveliso ezenziwe ngezandla kunye nezinto eziphilayo kunezo ziveliswa kwimizi-mveliso. Ubunewunewu bunokuchazwa njenge-handloom. Ngenxa yemigudu yee-NGO, imibutho karhulumente, kunye nabayili be-couture, ii-handlools zamaIndiya zilungelelaniswa kwinkulungwane yama-21.
Isiphelo:
Nangona iinzame ezinkulu zenziwe, siqinisekile ukuba kuya kwenzeka kuphela ukunqanda ukwehla kweempahla zezandla zaseIndiya ukuba amaIndiya aselula azamkela. Asiyonjongo yethu ukucebisa ukuba kuphela iintsimbi zokuluka izandla eziya kunxitywa ngabo. Iimpahla zezandla zingasetyenziselwa ukwenza impahla kunye nefenitshala yasekhaya njengoko sinethemba lokuzibuyisela ebomini babo.
Umhlathi kwiHandloom kunye neLifa laseIndiya ngesiNgesi
Amalaphu eHandloom ahonjiswe ngemihombiso eIndiya njengenxalenye yesithethe samandulo. Nangona kukho iindlela ezininzi ezahlukeneyo zempahla yabasetyhini eIndiya, i-saris, kunye neebhulawuzi zithathe ukubaluleka okuthile kunye nokubaluleka. Ibhinqa elinxibe isari libonakala ngokucacileyo ukuba lingumIndiya.
Phakathi kwabasetyhini baseIndiya, iisari kunye neebhulawuzi zibambe indawo ekhethekileyo ezintliziyweni zabo. Kukho iimpahla ezimbalwa ezinokuthi zihambelane nobuhle be-sari okanye i-blouse ye-handloom yaseIndiya. Akukho ngxelo yembali yayo. Zininzi iintlobo zempahla kunye nezimbo zokuluka ezifumaneka kwiitempile zakudala nezidumileyo zaseIndiya.
Yonke imimandla yaseIndiya ivelisa iisari ze-handloom. Kwimveliso yempahla ye-handloom, kukho ukungahambi kakuhle kunye nokusabalalisa okuhambelana nomsebenzi onzima, osekelwe kwi-caste, iindlela zendabuko. Abahlali basemaphandleni kunye nabo bathanda ubugcisa bayayixhasa, kunye nobuchule obuzuzwe njengelifa.
Ishishini le-handloom licandelo eliphambili lecandelo lemizi-mveliso elise-Indiya. IHandloom ngowona msebenzi mkhulu wezoqoqosho ongacwangciswanga eIndiya. Imimandla yasemaphandleni, esezidolophini, neyeedolophu ezinkulu igutyungelwe yiyo, kunye nobude nobubanzi belizwe lonke.
Isincoko esifutshane kwiHandloom kunye neLifa laseIndiya ngesiNgesi
Kwiqela, ishishini le-handloom lidlala indima ebalulekileyo ekuziseni uphuhliso loqoqosho kubantu abahluphekayo basemaphandleni. Baninzi abantu abasebenzela umbutho. Kodwa ayifaki galelo libonakalayo ekuveliseni amathuba engqesho nasekuboneleleni ngeempilo zabo bahlelelekileyo emaphandleni.
Abalawuli bayakuqonda ukubaluleka kweempahla zezandla kwaye bathatha amanyathelo okuzikhuthaza.
Okokuqala, ukuqonda kunye nokuhlalutya uxinzelelo olukhoyo kwiimpilo zabaluki kwiqela leRajapura-Patalwasas. Njengenyathelo lesibini, uhlalutyo olubalulekileyo kufuneka lwenziwe lwesakhiwo seziko lecandelo le-handloom. Oku kufuneka kulandelwe luhlalutyo lwendlela ukuhlanganiswa okuthe kwachaphazela ngayo ukuba semngciphekweni kokuphila kunye nolwakhiwo lweziko loshishino lwezandla.
Ngenxa yemveliso yeFabindia kunye neDaram, umsebenzi wasemaphandleni ukhuselekile kwaye ugcinwe eIndiya (Annapurna.M, 2006). Ngenxa yoko, eli candelo ngokucacileyo linezinto ezininzi ezinokubakho. Imimandla yasemaphandleni e-Indiya ibonelela ngabasebenzi abanezakhono, inika icandelo le-handloom inzuzo yokuthelekisa. Ekuphela kwento eyidingayo luphuhliso olufanelekileyo.
Umsantsa phakathi koqulunqo lomgaqo-nkqubo nokusetyenziswa kwayo.
Njengoko iimeko zentlalo noqoqosho zitshintsha, imigaqo-nkqubo karhulumente iya isiba mandundu, yaye ukudityaniswa kwehlabathi kusaqhubeka, abaluki bezandla bajamelene nengxaki yokuphila. Nanini na xa kusenziwa izibhengezo zikarhulumente ngentlalo-ntle yabaluki kunye nophuhliso loshishino lwezandla, kuhlala kukho umsantsa phakathi kwethiyori kunye nokusebenza.
Iinkqubo ezininzi zikarhulumente ziye zabhengezwa kubaluki. Urhulumente ujongene nemibuzo ebalulekileyo xa kuziwa ekuphunyezweni. Ukuze kuqinisekiswe ikamva loshishino lwezandla, izikhokelo zomgaqo-nkqubo ngokuzinikela ekuphunyezweni ziya kufuneka.
- Isincoko kwiPhupha lam laseIndiya: iIndiya ePhuhlisayo
- Isincoko sika-Swachh Bharat Abhiyan (uMthunywa ococekileyo eIndiya)
500 Amagama Isincoko kwi Handloom kunye neLifa Indian ngesiNgesi
Intshayelelo:
Ishishini le-cottage apho yonke intsapho ibandakanyeka kwimveliso yelaphu elenziwe kwimicu yendalo efana nekotoni, isilika, uboya kunye nejute. Ukuba bayasonta, bazidaye, kwaye baziluke. I-handloom yintambo evelisa ilaphu.
Iinkuni kunye ne-bamboo zezona zinto zisetyenziswayo kule nkqubo, kwaye azifuni mbane ukuze usebenze. Ngaphambili, onke amalaphu ayeveliswa ngesandla. Ngale ndlela, iimpahla ziveliswa ngendlela ehambelana nokusingqongileyo.
Impucuko yase-Indus Valley ikholelwa ngokuyilwa kwe-handloom yase-Indiana. Amalaphu avela eIndiya ayethunyelwa kwiRoma, eYiputa, naseTshayina yamandulo.
Kumaxesha angaphambili, phantse yonke ilali yayinabaluki bayo abenza zonke iimfuno zempahla ezifunwa ngabahlali njengeesaree, ii-dhoti, njalo njalo. Kwezinye iindawo apho kubanda ebusika, kwakukho amaziko athile okuluka uboya. Kodwa yonke into yayiyi-Hand-Spun and Hand-Loven.
Ngokwesithethe, yonke inkqubo yokwenza ilaphu yayizimela. Abaluki ngokwabo okanye abasebenzi bezolimo babecoca baze baguqule umqhaphu, isilika, noboya ezaziziswa ngamafama, amahlathi nabelusi. Izixhobo ezincinci eziphathwayo zisetyenzisiwe kule nkqubo, kubandakanywa ivili elijikelezayo elidumileyo (ekwabizwa ngokuba yiCharkha), uninzi lwabafazi. Lo msonto usongwe ngesandla kamva wenziwa ilaphu kwisandla sokuluka ngesandla ngabaluki.
Umqhaphu wamaIndiya wawuthunyelwa ehlabathini lonke ebudeni bolawulo lwaseBritani, yaye elo lizwe lalizaliswe yimisonto evela kwamanye amazwe eyenziwe ngoomatshini. Abasemagunyeni baseBritane basebenzise ubundlobongela kunye nokunyanzeliswa ukonyusa imfuno yalo msonto. Ngenxa yoko, ii-spinners zaphulukana nobomi bazo ngokupheleleyo, kwaye abaluki be-handloom kwafuneka baxhomekeke kumsonto womatshini ukuze baphile.
Abathengisi bemisonto kunye nabaxhasi bemali baba yimfuneko xa umsonto wawuthengwa kude. Ukongezelela, ngenxa yokuba abaluki abaninzi bengenatyala, abarhwebi baye baxhaphaka ngakumbi, yaye abaluki baphulukana nokuzimela ngenxa yoko, baza basebenzela abarhwebi njengoonokontraka/abarhola abasebenzi.
Ngenxa yezi zinto, i-handloom yaseIndiya yakwazi ukusinda de kwayiMfazwe Yehlabathi I xa kwasetyenziswa oomatshini bokwenza iimpahla nokuzalisa imarike yaseIndiya. Ebudeni beminyaka yee-1920, iintsimbi zombane zaveliswa, kwaye oomatshini badityaniswa, nto leyo eyakhokelela kukhuphiswano olungafanelekanga. Oku kubangele ukuhla kwe-handloom.
Intshukumo yeSwadeshi yaqalwa nguMahatma Gandhi, owazisa ukusonta ngesandla ngendlela yeKhadi, nto leyo ethetha ukusonta ngesandla kunye nokulukwa kwesandla. Wonke umIndiya wabongozwa ukuba asebenzise umsonto weKhadi kunye neCharkha. Ngenxa yoko, iManchester Mills yavalwa kwaye umbutho wokuzimela waseIndiya watshintshwa. UKhadi wayenxitywa endaweni yeempahla ezivela kwamanye amazwe.
Ukusukela ngo-1985, kwaye ngakumbi emva kweminyaka engama-90, icandelo le-handloom kuye kwafuneka lijongane nokhuphiswano oluvela kumazwe angaphandle ngexabiso eliphantsi, kunye noyilo lokulinganisa olusuka kwi-loom yamandla.
Ngaphaya koko, inkxaso-mali karhulumente kunye nokhuseleko lomgaqo-nkqubo kwehle kakhulu. Kukwakho ukonyuka okukhulu kwixabiso lemisonto yefiber yendalo. Amalaphu endalo abiza kakhulu xa kuthelekiswa neentsinga ezenziweyo. Abantu abanakukwazi ukuyihlawula ngenxa yoku. Kule minyaka ilishumi okanye emibini idlulileyo, imivuzo yabaluki bezandla ihleli ingumkhenkce.
Abaluki abaninzi bayayeka ukuluka ngenxa yamalaphu axubeneyo axutywe ngexabiso elininzi kwaye basebenza abantu abangenabuchule. Ubuhlwempu buye baba yimeko egqithisileyo kwabaninzi.
Ububodwa beempahla ze-handloom zenza ukuba zikhetheke. Isakhono somluki simisela imveliso, kunjalo. Ukwaluka ilaphu elifanayo ngabaluki ababini abanezakhono ezifanayo akuyi kufana ngandlela zonke. Umoya womluki ubonakala kwilaphu – xa enomsindo, ilaphu liya kuqina, ngelixa xa ekhathazekile, liya kukhululeka. Ngenxa yoko, isiqwenga ngasinye sahlukile.
Kunokwenzeka ukuba ufumane iindidi ezingama-20-30 ezahlukeneyo zokuluka kummandla omnye waseIndiya, kuxhomekeke kwinxalenye yelizwe. Uluhlu olubanzi lwamalaphu lunikezelwa, njengamalaphu alula alula, i-motifs yezizwe, uyilo lwejometri, kunye nobugcisa obucacileyo kwi-muslin. Kuluyolo ukusebenza kunye neenkosi zethu zamagcisa. Lilizwe kuphela emhlabeni elinoluhlu olwahlukeneyo lobugcisa belaphu elityebileyo.
Yonke i-sari elukiweyo yodwa njengepeyinti okanye ifoto. Ukufa kwe-handloom kufana nokuthi ukufota, ukupeyinta, ukwenziwa kodongwe, kunye nokuyilwa kwemizobo kuyakuphela ngenxa yabashicileli be-3D.
400 Amagama Isincoko kwi Handloom kunye neLifa Indian ngesiNgesi
Intshayelelo:
Ishishini le-cottage apho yonke intsapho ibandakanyeka kwimveliso yelaphu elenziwe kwimicu yendalo efana nekotoni, isilika, uboya kunye nejute. Ngokuxhomekeke kwinqanaba lobuchule babo, banokusonta, bafake umbala, kwaye baluke ngokwabo umsonto. Ukongeza kwizixhobo zokuluka ngesandla, aba matshini bakwasetyenziselwa ukuvelisa ilaphu.
Ukhuni, ngamanye amaxesha i-bamboo, isetyenziselwa ezi zixhobo kwaye zixhaswa ngumbane. Uninzi lwenkqubo yokuvelisa ilaphu yayisetyenziselwa ukwenziwa ngesandla kwimihla yakudala. Impahla inokuveliswa ngolu hlobo ngaphandle kokonakalisa indalo esingqongileyo.
Imbali ye-Handloom-Iintsuku zokuQala:
Impucuko yase-Indus Valley ikholelwa ngokuyilwa kwe-handloom yaseIndiya. Amalaphu avela eIndiya ayethunyelwa kwiRoma, eYiputa, naseTshayina yamandulo.
Abahlali belali babenabaluki babo ngaphambili ababesenza zonke iimpahla abazidingayo ezifana neesarayi, iidhoti, njalo njalo. Kukho iindawo zokuluka uboya kwezinye iindawo ezigodola ngexesha lasebusika. Amalaphu asontelwe ngesandla kunye nalukwe ngesandla ayesetyenziswa omabini.
Ukwenza amalaphu ngokwesithethe kwakuyinkqubo yokuzimela ngokupheleleyo. Umqhaphu, isilika, noboya obuqokelelwa kumafama, kumahlathi, abelusi namahlathi bucocwa baze batshintshwe ngabaluki ngokwabo okanye ngabasebenzi bezolimo. Amabhinqa ayesebenzisa izixhobo ezincinane neziluncedo, kuquka ivili elijikelezayo elidumileyo (elikwabizwa ngokuba yiCharkha). Abaluki kamva benza ilaphu ngalo msonto usongwe ngesandla kwisixhobo sokuluka ngesandla.
Ukuncipha kwentambo yesandla:
Ngexesha laseBritani, iIndiya yafumana umsonto wemisonto evela kwamanye amazwe kunye nomqhaphu owenziwe ngoomatshini. Urhulumente wase-Bhritane uzame ukunyanzela abantu ukuba batye lo msonto ngobundlobongela kunye nokunyanzeliswa. Ngamafutshane, ii-spinners zaphulukana nobomi babo kwaye abaluki bezandla kwafuneka baxhomekeke kumsonto womatshini ukuze baziphilise.
Umthengisi wemisonto kunye nomxhasi waba yimfuneko xa umsonto kwafuneka uthengelwe kude. Ishishini lokuluka liye laxhomekeka ngakumbi kubantu abaphakathi njengoko intengo yemali yabaluki yayisiya isihla. Ngaloo ndlela, abaluki abaninzi balahlekelwa ukuzimela kwabo kwaye banyanzeliswa ukuba basebenzele abarhwebi ngekontrakthi / isiseko somvuzo.
Imarike yaseIndiya yokuthunga iimpahla yahlala phezu kwako nje oku de kwafika iMfazwe Yehlabathi I xa imarike yayizaliswe ziimpahla ezenziwe ngoomatshini ezivela kumazwe angaphandle. Ngeminyaka yoo-1920, izixhobo zokuluka zamandla zaye zaziswa, izixhobo zokusila zadityaniswa, kwaye iindleko zemisonto zanyuka, nto leyo ebangela ukwehla kwezixhobo zokuluka.
Ukuhlaziywa kwe-handloom:
Intshukumo yeSwadeshi yaqalwa nguMahatma Gandhi, owazisa ukusonta ngesandla ngendlela yeKhadi, nto leyo ethetha ukusonta ngesandla kunye nokulukwa kwesandla. Wonke umIndiya wabongozwa ukuba asebenzise umsonto weKhadi kunye neCharkha. Ngenxa yoko, iManchester Mills yavalwa kwaye umbutho wokuzimela waseIndiya watshintshwa. UKhadi wayenxitywa endaweni yeempahla ezivela kwamanye amazwe.
Iintambo zezandla aziphelelwa lixesha:
Ububodwa beempahla ze-handloom zenza ukuba zikhetheke. Isakhono somluki simisela imveliso, kunjalo. Akunakwenzeka ukuba abaluki ababini abanezakhono ezifanayo bavelise ilaphu elifanayo kuba baya kwahluka ngendlela enye okanye ngaphezulu. Ilaphu ngalinye libonakalisa umoya womluki – xa enomsindo, ilaphu liya kuba ngqingqwa, ngeli lixa xa ekhathazekile, ilaphu liya kukhululeka. Iziqwenga ke ngoko zodwa ngokwazo.
Kunokwenzeka ukuba ufumane iindidi ezingama-20-30 ezahlukeneyo zokuluka kummandla omnye waseIndiya, kuxhomekeke kwinxalenye yelizwe. Uluhlu olubanzi lwamalaphu luyafumaneka, njengamalaphu alula alula, iimotifs zezizwe, uyilo lwejometri, kunye nobugcisa obucacileyo kwi-muslin. Iincutshe zamagcisa ngabaluki bethu. Ubugcisa be-textile obutyebileyo baseTshayina abunakulinganiswa kwihlabathi namhlanje.
Yonke i-sari elukiweyo yodwa njengepeyinti okanye ifoto. Ukutsho ukuba i-handloom kufuneka itshabalale ngenxa yokuchitha ixesha kunye nokusebenza kwayo xa kuthelekiswa nokuluka amandla, kufana nokuthi ukupeyinta, ukufota, kunye nokwenza imodeli yodongwe kuya kuphelelwa lixesha ngenxa yabashicileli be-3D kunye noyilo lwegrafiki ye-3D.
Xhasa i-Handloom ukuze ugcine esi siko singaphelelwa lixesha! Sizama ukwenza kancinci wethu. Nawe ungayenza - Thenga iisareyi zezandla kwi-intanethi.